Material Culture and New Values: The Case of Ethical Fashion

Author/s Laura Bovone
Publishing Year 2016 Issue 2015/50 Language Italian
Pages 14 P. 100-113 File size 240 KB
DOI 10.3280/SC2015-050010
DOI is like a bar code for intellectual property: to have more infomation click here

Below, you can see the article first page

If you want to buy this article in PDF format, you can do it, following the instructions to buy download credits

Article preview

FrancoAngeli is member of Publishers International Linking Association, Inc (PILA), a not-for-profit association which run the CrossRef service enabling links to and from online scholarly content.

The article explores the phenomenon of ethical fashion from the beginning to nowadays as an example of material culture where the role of new values is particularly visible. Fashion, long-considered the most frivolous/useless/negative way of consumption, is framed by the author through the categories usually employed when explaining the passage from rational productive modernity to the aesthetic consumer culture of postmodernity. Ethical fashion seems to contrast this dichotomous mentality and expects to integrate aesthetic innovation and morals, sustainability and shared welfare, production and consumption. A new Ethical Imagination, supported by advanced digital instruments and the recent sharing economy values, drives toward work/consumption solutions that promise to subvert old hierarchies and alienated relations as well as gender bias.

Keywords: Ethical fashion, material culture, values, sharing economy, ethical imagination

  1. Adkins L. (1999), Community and Economy. A Retraditionalization of Gender?, «Theory, Culture &Society», 16, 1, pp. 119-139.
  2. Alberoni F. (1964), Consumi e società, il Mulino, Bologna.
  3. Alexander J.C., Seidman S. (1990), Culture and Society, Cambridge University Press, New York.
  4. Appadurai A. (1996), Modernity at Large, University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis-
  5. London; trad. it. (2012), Modernità in polvere, Raffaello Cortina, Milano.
  6. Baudrillard J. (1972), Pour une critique de l’économie politique du signe, Gallimard,
  7. Paris; trad. it. (1974), Per una critica dell’economia politica del segno, Mazzotta, Milano.
  8. Bauman Z. (1993), Postmodern Ethics, Blackwell, Oxford UK-Cambridge USA.
  9. Belk R. (2007), Why Not Share Rather than Own?, in «Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science», 611, pp. 126-140.
  10. Belk R. (2010), Sharing , in «Journal of Consumer Culture », 36, pp. 715-735.
  11. Bourdieu P. (1979), La distinction, Editions de Minuit, Paris; trad. it. (2001), La distinzione. Critica sociale del gusto, il Mulino, Bologna.
  12. Bovone L. (2014), Rappresentarsi nel mondo, FrancoAngeli, Milano.
  13. Bovone L., Mora E. (a cura di) (2007), La spesa responsabile, Roma, Donzelli.
  14. Clark H. (2008), Slow+Fashion – an Oxymoron – or a Promise for the Future…?, «Fashion Theory», 12, 4, pp. 427-446.
  15. Crane D. (2000), Fashion and its Social Agenda, University of Chicago Press, Chicago. Crane D. (2015), The puzzle of the ethical fashion consumer, Paper presentato alla International Conference «Fashion Tales», Università Cattolica, Milano, 18-20 giugno.
  16. Crewe L. (2013), When Virtual and Material Worlds Collide: Democratic Fashion in the Digital Age, in «Environment and Planning», 45, pp. 760-780.
  17. Degli Esposti P. (2015), Essere prosumer nella società digitale, FrancoAngeli, Milano.
  18. Douglas M. (1996), Thought Styles, Sage, Thousands Oaks-London-New Delhi
  19. Douglas M., Isherwood B. (1979), The World of Goods, Basic Books, New York.
  20. Du Gay P., Hall S., Janes S., Mackay H., Negus K. (1997), Doing Cultural Studies: The Story of the Sony Walkman, Sage, London.
  21. Entwistle J. (2009), The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion. Berg, Oxford- New York.
  22. Finkelstein, J. (1998), Fashion, New York University Press, New York.
  23. Fiske J. (1991), Understanding Popular Culture, Routledge, London and New York.
  24. Gauntlett D. (2011), Making is Connecting, Polity Press, Cambridge.
  25. Gregson N., Crewe L. (2003), Second-hand Culture, Berg, Oxford-New York.
  26. Jameson F. (1991), Postmodernism, or the Cultural Logic of Late Capitalism, Duke University Press, Durham.
  27. Hilton M. (2004), The Legacy of Luxury, in «Journal of Consumer Culture», 4, 1, pp. 101-123.
  28. Horkheimer M., Adorno T. W. (1947), Dialektik der Aufklärung, Frankfurt am Main, S. Fischer Verlag; trad. it. (1966), Dialettica dell’illuminismo, Einaudi, Torino.
  29. Illich I. (1973), Tools for Conviviality, Harper and Row, New York-London; trad. it. (2005), La convivialità. Una proposta libertaria per una politica dei limiti allo sviluppo, Boroli, Milano.
  30. Lash S. (1994), Reflexivity and its Doubles: Structure, Aesthetics, Community, in
  31. Beck U., Giddens A., Lash S, Reflexive Modernization, Polity Press, Cambridge, pp. 110-173; trad. it. (1999), Modernizzazione riflessiva, Asterios, Trieste.
  32. Latouche S. (2003), Décoloniser l’imaginaire, Parangon, Paris; trad. it. (2004), Decolonizzare l’immaginario. Il pensiero creativo contro l’economia dell’assurdo, Emi, Bologna.
  33. Lunghi C. (2012), Creative evasioni, FrancoAngeli, Milano.
  34. Lunghi C., Montagnini E. (2007), La moda della responsabilità, FrancoAngeli, Milano.
  35. McCracken G. (1990), Culture and Consumption, Indiana University Press, Indianapolis and Bloomington.
  36. Marcuse H. (1964), One-Dimensional Man, Beacon Press, Boston; trad. it. (1999), L’uomo a una dimensione, Einaudi, Torino.
  37. Micheletti M. (2003) Political Virtue and Shopping, Palgrave Macmillan, New York.
  38. Mazzucotelli Salice S. (2016), Digital Fashion: An Emerging Fashion System, in «Critical Studies of Fashion and Beauty» (in corso di stampa).
  39. Miller D. (1998), A Theory of Shopping, Polity Press, Cambridge.
  40. Mora E. (2008), The Symbolic and Material Space of Fair Fashion, in K.S. Kirchberg V. (ed.) Sustainability, VAS, Frankfurt a. M., pp. 529-558. Ritzer G. (2013), Prosumption: Evolution, Revolution, or Eternal Return of the Same?, «Journal of Consumer Culture», pp. 1-22.
  41. Ruggerone L. (2001), Introduzione, in Ruggerone L. (a cura di), Al di là della moda, FrancoAngeli, Milano, pp. 13-53.
  42. Schor J. (2014), Debating the Sharing Economy, essay published by «The Great Transition Initiative, Tellus Institute», available at http://www.
  43. Sennet R. (2008), The Craftman, Allen Lane, London; trad. it. (2008), L’uomo artigiano, Feltrinelli, Milano.
  44. Skov L. (2005), The Return of the Fur Coat, in «Current Sociology», 53, 1, pp. 9-13.
  45. Solomon L. (2015), Why the Fashion Industry Should Engage with Community Development, Paper presentato alla International Conference Fashion Tales, Università Cattolica, Milano, 18-20 giugno.
  46. Thomas S. (2008), From “Green Blur” to Ecofashion: Fashioning an Eco-lexicon, in «Fashion Theory», 12, 4, pp. 525-540.
  47. Tseëlon E. (2011), Introduction: A Critique of the Ethical Fashion Paradigm, in «Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty», 2, 1-2, pp. 3-68.
  48. Wenger E. (1998), Communities of Practice, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
  49. Wilson E. (2005), Adorned in Dreams, I.B. Tauris, London and New York.

Laura Bovone, Cultura materiale e nuovi valori: il caso della moda etica in "SOCIOLOGIA DELLA COMUNICAZIONE " 50/2015, pp 100-113, DOI: 10.3280/SC2015-050010